Le Surf Change le Monde
Gibus de Soultrait, passionate surfer for more than 50 years. He directs the French version of the bimonthly Surfer’s Journal. He co-founded the magazine Surf Session. He is also very active in the associative environment (Surfrider Foundation Europe, surf club, Rame pour ta planet…).
All these years are condensed in this book “Surfing changes the world”. From its first waves to today, from its travels, its encounters, its experience. It is through various texts that this book offers a reading that is as pleasant and traveling as it is captivating and reflective.
“Historical, narrative, reflective, this book takes you from the birth of surfing with the Polynesians to a reflection on ecology. It is also the story of an epic journey and that of an exchange with the philosopher Gilles Deleuze. It is a happy invitation to understand the movement of our time like a wave to be surfed.
An astonishing book, an explosive book, a living book. ”